The Curly Girl Method is one of the most well-known series of methods for curly hair care. I myself mix and match guidance from all over, but CGM has developed a loyal and often meticulous following. A Google search returns over 78 million results. The principles we teach have an undeniable power to transform product offerings, and I don’t think you could watch every YouTube tutorial in a lifetime.
But when something snowballs this much, the core of it can get lost in the noise. So when I, a beauty journalist, was asked to explain how, I had no idea where to start. There was one person I needed to talk to. Hairdresser Lorraine Massey, author of Curly Girl: The Handbook. Although no single step or principle can really be attributed to any particular individual, the entire Curly Girl Method, its name, and the worldwide dissemination of these combined practices began with Lorraine. She herself says she doesn’t do many interviews anymore, but I was pleasantly surprised when she agreed to chat with me.
Lorraine Massey/Roberto Ligulesti
Lorraine Massey, founder of the Curly Girl Method
Without the ability to learn and share with those around you, curly hair can become very isolated. After much convincing to open up and share her methods, Curly Girl became a touchpoint to help people connect. Before the internet, there was always a lack of guidance regarding curly hair. That’s why the “Curly Girl Method” has created a huge buzz and helped millions of people take care of and style their curly hair.
What are the main steps of the Curly Girl Method?
This method is best known for washing your hair without shampoo and using conditioner instead. Other key principles focus on ingredients and tools to avoid (silicone, brushes, towels, etc.) and are what people are talking about when they call a product “Curly Girl Approved.”
Why not try shampooing using the curly girl method?
Cutting the shampoo out of her curly hair habit, the crux of the process, was something Lorraine had once kept a secret, remembering the moment a lightbulb went on when she realized it. “If I’m happier not shampooing, why am I doing this? I started just washing my hair with conditioner, and I was getting happier and happier. But I didn’t tell anyone, because people… Because it is considered unclean.”
Everything revolves around hydration. Curly hair is more prone to dryness than other hair types because the sebum from the scalp does not reach the tips of the hair like straight hair. And Lorraine asks. “When something is dry. Why use detergent to dry it?” This method proves that the conditioner can adequately cleanse the scalp and hair, and that the exfoliating sulfates found in traditional shampoos are unnecessary. This will tell you that in some cases, it can damage your curly hair. Sulfate-free cleansing (meaning no bubbles at all) was something even chemists rejected when Lorraine was first trying to develop sulfate-free products, but now Virtually all new products are sulfate-free.
What ingredients are avoided with the Curly Girl Method?
So many products are packed with ingredients that our hair doesn’t need or like. There are endless lists of ingredients to eliminate on the internet, but the curly girl (CG) ingredients to avoid are most often tied to hydration. These include drying parabens and some alcohols, as well as silicones and oils that coat your hair and create a barrier against water.
By copying and pasting the ingredient list into a tool like curlsbot, you can analyze the ingredients in your products and start understanding which ingredients to avoid before you buy. However, please note that none of these tools have been verified by Lorraine.
Young Old Man // Getty Images
How strict is the Curly Girl Method?
While chatting about how this method is being adapted and relaxed by users, Lorraine said: “If you’re happy, it’s beautiful. But I look at the technique and it’s incredibly complicated. The adoption has become very complicated. Your hair is an organic fiber and these No chemicals or layers required. There’s nothing natural about your hair after you’ve applied 20 different products to it.” Although the pineapple painting tutorials are named CGM, they are not part of Lorraine’s OG method. “If you’re going to play with your curls too much, maybe one night is fine. But given my lifestyle, you’re basically saying my curls aren’t good enough. I don’t need that. The most difficult part is not to impose, but to teach and answer.” ”
Curly Girl: Handbook (Paperback)
How to practice the Curly Girl Method
Would you like to learn CG techniques directly from the creators themselves? read more…
How do you wash your hair without shampoo?
Start by thoroughly wetting your hair. If your hair takes a long time to get wet, it may be due to a build-up of silicones or other ingredients in the products you’re using.
Use a silicone-free conditioner or a cleansing product like Lorraine’s Curly World Shame-Free Conditioning Scalp and Hair Cleanser to coat your hair and focus on delivering product to your scalp. “It rubs your scalp. It removes everything that’s on your scalp. It’s a really great scalp massage.”
CurlyWorld™ – Authentic hair and scalp cleanser
In the search for shampoo alternatives, Lorraine says many companies are using co-washes as a major rebrand of what is essentially traditional shampoo, so many companies are using co-washes as a major rebrand. The product warns you to be careful.
How to trim and detangle curly hair
According to Lorraine, if you’re used to rushing your laundry day, it’s time to slow down your TF, which is important to allow the conditioning elements to absorb. Oh, and what about the brush? They are a no-no for this method, which encourages you to use your fingers to detangle your hair. “I call it hand conditioning. If there are knots or pulls, I add more conditioner and water. With a brush, I don’t feel like I need more, so I condition my hair. You may want to brush your hair from time to time.”Continued dehydration can cause further dryness, leading to breakage and damage. ”
Delmaine Donson // Getty Images
What is the best way to rinse curly hair?
Again, it’s all about time. Rinse slowly while combing your hair to prevent moisture from falling out too quickly. As Lorraine points out, doing so “drives the conditioning elements further into[the hair’s]cuticle and cortex, resulting in hydration throughout the hair, not just the top layer.”
Do not rinse out the conditioner completely. The amount left depends on your curls and how much moisture they need. So, it may require some experimentation and getting to know the condition of your hair. If you have wavy hair, Lorraine says, wash it all out slowly and cupping it.
How to dry your hair using the curly girl method
Traditional towels and hair dryers are not allowed. Lorraine changes the contents of her salon regularly. She uses a bamboo towel and leaves it to dry until it drips from time to time. I also like to use paper towels to dry my hair and reuse them to create a DIY conditioning towel that releases previously absorbed conditioner. Resourceful.
Microfiber towels are popular, but they can strip a lot of moisture from your hair, so a simple T-shirt or jersey towel is popular with CGM believers.
Good Wash Day Organic Jersey Cotton T-Shirt Hair Towel
Best Curly Girl Method Styling Techniques
To style your hair according to the curly girl method, stock up on conditioning gels. Lorraine advises choosing one with a water-like consistency rather than a rubbery consistency so that the gel is distributed evenly through your hair. The drier your hair tends to be, the less gel you’ll need to use, and Lorraine herself uses gel as a top layer of glazer to just lock it in while it’s on her hair.
After applying the glaze and blending it in with your hands so as not to disturb the curls as much as possible, let the hair dry. “You need a gel that stays compact during the drying process. I call it vacuum-packed curls. Then, once dry, you can break that seal, that cast, and fluff it up to get the fullness you want. You can.”
Mint Images // Getty Images
Lorraine says the drier your hair is before fluffing, the longer your curls will last. There is no need to fluff it as soon as it dries. You can leave in extra conditioner and gel to create perfect curls that night or over the next day or two, so you can have perfect curls when you want them.
What tools does Curly Girl approve of?
In this method, the tool is considered a risk of damage, whether it is heated or not. A brush cannot be used, but a hair pick is used to fluff the curls from the core without disturbing them.
Switching to a satin or silk scrunchie or pillowcase, or sleeping in a satin or silk bonnet, will protect your hair from breakage and dehydration, and help preserve curls, reducing the need for refreshing and re-styling.
LilySilk 100% Mulberry Silk Pillow Cover Credit: LilySilk
This clever silk pillowcase comes in a variety of colors and is backed with cotton for an affordable price. Silk or satin pillowcases are gentle on delicate hair and won’t strip away moisture.
TABIGER Silk Satin Hair Scrunchie 6 Pack Credit: Amazon
A satin scrunchie won’t tug on your hair and will reduce tension on your hair. These colors look just as beautiful on your wrist, but if you’re not too particular about style, you can get multipacks of a few dozen for very cheap.
Lanjue 3 Size Afro Comb Set Credit: Provided by the brand
This method does not use a brush or comb to detangle, but we recommend using a pick to add fluff and volume.
SILKE London SILKE Hair Wrap The Poppy
If you really want to take care of yourself, Silke’s luxurious headwraps will make you feel like an old Hollywood movie star. But simpler satin alternatives or classic bonnets will also cut down on work. It’s all about protecting your curls while you sleep.
As an outsider to the Curly Girl Method, I’m surprised at how easy the original procedure actually is. I may still be using shampoo, brandishing tangled brushes and throwing poop around, but the simplicity of using two or three products and letting my curls run free is something I totally agree with. It is the spirit that exists. Sorry for being so clumsy.
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Elena Chavo is Cosmopolitan UK’s beauty writer, covering everything from hot celebrity news and trending beauty to honest first-person reviews and captivating video content for social media. We also create more features and expert-led how-to guides for print and online. Her passion for black beauty, textured hair, and the way beauty interacts with culture, society, identity, and relationships soon took over her writing career and led her to beauty journalism. I did. After completing my Master’s degree in Magazine Journalism in 2017, I worked in various roles at Stylist Magazine before taking up a Digital Writer role at Good Housekeeping. Here beauty took center stage and she launched and ran the site’s first independent beauty section. She will remain at Hearst and join the Cosmo Beauty team in 2022. Find her on LinkedIn.