With all the focus on moisturizing skincare, dry, damaged hair may be on the back burner and getting the care it needs. Sure, you could try a shampoo for dry hair to remedy the situation, but hot oil treatments are a self-care practice recommended by hair stylists that can bring life back to your hair. Before you pour a bottle of steaming oil over your head, read on. We asked stylists the key questions you need to know about hot oil and how to perform the treatment safely.
What is a hot oil treatment for hair?
Hot oil treatments for hair involve using warm oils such as olive oil, almond oil, or coconut oil. The warm oil is massaged into the scalp and along the strands of hair to deeply moisturize and nourish the hair. Hot oil treatments aim to strengthen hair, repair dead hair, and add shine.
“Warm oil hydrates hair follicles and seals the cuticle, helping to repair and prevent split ends,” explains hairstylist Jana Lago. “When done properly, a hot oil hair treatment, including a scalp massage and allowing enough time for the oil to penetrate the hair and scalp, can leave your hair shiny and smooth when you wash and dry it. I often joke that hot oil treatments are like Botox for hair – it brings back shine to your hair and helps strengthen the cuticle from the roots up.”
The effects of hot oil on hair
Using the right hot oil hair treatment has many benefits beyond treating dry hair and scalp.
Treating Dandruff
Hot-oil hair treatments can help with dandruff, but only if your dandruff is caused by a dry scalp (not fungal dandruff). That’s because when you apply a hot-oil hair treatment to your scalp, it increases circulation and sloughs off the dry, flaky skin on top of your scalp, leaving your scalp feeling hydrated and refreshed when you wash it off, says Lago.
“Keep in mind that there are other factors that can cause dandruff-like product buildup or certain medical conditions, like seborrheic dermatitis,” adds Lee Harges, hairstylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago, the latter of which usually calls for more advanced dandruff treatments.
Softens frizzy and textured hair
People with curly or textured hair benefit the most from hot oil hair treatments, as they are naturally prone to dryness. “For people with textured hair, I recommend a hot oil treatment, which can be used for deep conditioning, especially during the dry winter months,” explains natural hair educator Jessica Morrobel. “One of the biggest benefits of a hot oil treatment on textured hair is that it protects the hair and makes it softer and more manageable.”
Promoting growth
Hot oil treatments have been shown to be effective at stimulating blood flow, encouraging hair growth from the roots. Hot oil treatments also help repair split ends, preventing hair from shortening and making hair appear longer. Be careful not to use hot oil too often, as it strips the natural oils from your hair, which can damage it and prevent healthy growth.
The risks of hot oil treatments for your hair
First, pay attention to the temperature of the oil. If it’s too hot, it can easily burn your scalp. Also, “don’t use[hot oil hair treatments]on dry or dirty hair; when your hair is wet, your cuticles are a little more open, making it the perfect time to apply oil and conditioner,” says Harges. “When styling, it’s essential to shampoo out any oil from your hair for best results.”
Before applying a new oil to your hair and scalp for the first time, always do a patch test on an area close to your scalp to make sure it doesn’t have an adverse effect on your skin. “It’s important to know which oils are suitable for your hair type, especially if you have sensitive skin, to avoid any adverse reactions to the oil,” says Morobel. “As a natural hair guru, I recommend that anyone new to hot oil treatments consult with their doctor or dermatologist before applying hot oil all over their scalp.”
Are hot oil treatments suitable for all hair types?
According to Lago, hot oil treatments aren’t suitable for all hair types or scalp conditions, such as thinning or damaged scalps. However, hot oil hair treatments are great for people with normal to dry, curly hair. Because curly or textured hair is more porous, people with these hair types will find that they absorb the oils in a hot oil treatment faster than people with straight hair. “People with curly, kinky, or textured hair will get better results than people with straight or thin hair,” Lago explains. “Oils can be too strong for thinning hair, so you’ll need to apply a small amount to the scalp to use it successfully.”
Don’t worry about the oil dragging your hair or making it look oily: a hot oil treatment is about getting the oil into your hair, not letting it sit on top of your hair, so as long as you’re using the right type (and right proportion) of oil, that won’t happen.
The key is to find an oil with the right molecular weight. For fine hair, try coconut oil. In one study, researchers compared the molecular weights of coconut oil, sunflower oil, and mineral oil. They found that coconut oil has a lower molecular weight and therefore penetrates the hair shaft more easily. However, certain oils, such as sunflower oil and mineral oil, can stick to the surface of the cuticle, making hair oily.
How to do a hot oil hair treatment at home?
Luckily, you don’t have to go to the drugstore: if you have some plant-based oils like olive, almond, or coconut on hand, you’re already half way there.
What you need
Oil blend (grapeseed, hemp seed, avocado, olive, coconut oil, etc.) Heat-resistant bowl or glass container Large bowl Hot water Plastic shower cap Shampoo and conditioner
Be sure to allow enough time for your hot oil hair treatment to work properly. “Depending on the amount of oil used, you may need to wash your hair twice to fully remove the product from your hair and scalp,” says Rago. “Doing this type of oil treatment at home is best done when you have some down time and aren’t planning on going out right after. Hair always looks its best a few days after doing this type of treatment.”
DIY Hot Oil Treatment Instructions for Hair
To use hot oil for your hair treatment, follow these steps:
Scoop a small amount of oil into a heat-resistant bowl or glass container. Place the heat-resistant bowl or glass container into a larger bowl of hot water and partially immerse the smaller bowl for a few minutes. Once the oil is at the right temperature, test the oil on your wrist before applying it to your hair. Rub your hands together to distribute the warm oil down to your fingertips. Apply the oil to your scalp and massage your scalp with your fingers in small circular movements, from your hairline to the back of your neck and ears. Once the oil is distributed throughout your scalp, use a wide-tooth comb to pull the product up to the ends. Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and leave the oil in your hair for 15 to 30 minutes. To remove the oil, wash and shampoo your hair. Finish with a conditioner if needed.
FAQ
How often should I give my hair a hot oil treatment?
Hot oil treatments can be done once a week or once every two weeks, depending on your personal preference, but overdoing it can be damaging to your hair. For example, doing it every day can strip your hair of its natural oils and cause buildup.
Can you straighten your hair with hot oil?
Regular hot oil treatments are not only great for nourishing your hair, but they are also an effective hair straightening technique. While a single hot oil treatment won’t completely straighten your hair, regular treatments will make your hair healthier, smoother, shinier and straighter over time.
Should I wash my hair before or after a hot oil treatment?
Hot oil treatments work best on clean hair. That’s why we recommend washing your hair before applying the oil. Freshly washed hair allows the oil to penetrate deeper into the cuticle, as dirt, sweat, and product build-up can clog hair follicles. The oil needs to be allowed to penetrate the hair, not sit on the surface of the hair, which can make it look oily. However, you can wash your hair again after a hot oil treatment to remove excess oil.
