LED face masks use light to activate cells and improve skin condition, and the technology is now being applied to hair growth too – but do they actually work?
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Zoe Passam, senior consultant trichologist at Philip Kingsley, said the type of phototherapy used for alopecia is called LLLT (low-level light therapy), and is most commonly used for male and female pattern hair loss. “It is thought to work by stimulating cellular metabolism to increase the number of actively growing hair follicles in the anagen phase.”
Those with longstanding hair loss may not find it effective and will need to wait at least three months for youthful hair to regrow and up to a year to see a real difference. Passam adds: “LLLT is often used in conjunction with other topical or oral treatments, depending on the type of hair loss.”
Side effects include rare heat reactions and scalp fat loss, which can lead to wrinkling, but Zoe Passam adds: “LLLT is a good option for people who don’t want to take or apply medication, and it is usually well tolerated.”
Perhaps the biggest drawback is that the devices are expensive and treatments take a long time – typically you need to use them for around 10 minutes a few times a week. LLLT scalp treatments come in the form of a helmet, which CurrentBody sells for £650. Solaris Labs NY sells an LED brush for £86, but this obviously offers less coverage and fewer LEDs.
If you are worried about hair loss, you should get a blood test to check if your iron and thyroid levels are OK. A trichologist or dermatologist can determine what type of hair loss you are experiencing and suggest further treatment options.
Have a beauty question for Anita? Email her at beautyQandA@theguardian.com.
