We’ve said it once and we’ll say it a thousand times: all things 2000s are back, and we’re basking in nostalgia with cargo pants, chokers, platform shoes, and more. The same can be said for beauty, with frosted lips, French manicures, and purple eyeshadow all trending.
Add hair color to that list: Calico hair is familiar to millennials, says colorist Ryan Dickey of IGK Salon Miami, and is a repurposed version of the early 2000s trend of thick highlights. (Yes, we were surprised by the thick highlights rendition, too.)
Need an image? Think Kelly Clarkson back in her American Idol days, he says. It’s bold, sure, but it can be tweaked and tweaked to flatter a variety of skin tones and hair colors. Here, top colorists share what you should know before considering a triple-hair look.
What is a calico cat?
Yes, “calico hair,” named after the calico cat, is characterized by a mix of red, brown, and blonde hairs that results in a striking blonde color, Dickey says. More specifically, he adds, we’re seeing hairstyles today that are very blocky and have chunks of color. Again, a Kelly Clarkson reference.
Why are calico cats so popular?
We mentioned the nostalgia factor of the early 2000s, but calico hair is also perfect for the current season, points out New York-based stylist and colorist Marie Nino. “The blend of copper, auburn, and blonde feels like you’re stepping into fall itself—think vibrant fall leaves, but with an edge. This color combo gives hair a warm, dimensional shine that’s both comfortable and striking, making it perfect for anyone looking to embrace the season in full color.”
Who would be interested in trying out calico?
Gina Rivera, hair expert and founder of Phoenix Salon Suites, says calico hair color looks good on everyone, regardless of age, hair type, hair length, or skin tone. For the most flattering results, she says it’s all about fine-tuning the exact color and placement of the highlights. (So this is definitely a color trend best left to the pros and not something you should try to do yourself.)
It’s worth noting that calico appears softer and diffuses color when applied to textured or wavy hair; conversely, when applied to straight hair, bands of color are more visible, Dickey notes. And ultimately, calico is versatile and can be tailored to the individual, but is great for those who want to make a bigger statement with their hair color.
What to Ask Your Colorist
“Ask your colorist for a mix of copper, auburn, and golden blonde shades, along with dimensional highlights and lowlights,” says Nino. “Bring along reference photos that show the color placement you’re going for, and have them adjust the blend to suit your skin tone.” Feeling like something spicier? Rivera adds that you could also consider asking them to add a splash of black to the mix.
How to care for your calico cat’s fur
Caring for calico hair does require some effort. “The calico trend is very high-maintenance, and because of the complicated coloring process, it’s best to hold onto the color for as long as possible,” says Dickey, adding that it’s less noticeable as the hair grows out, and because the color doesn’t blend with your natural tone, your roots tend to show through quickly.
To preserve the color for as long as possible, Rivera recommends using a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner after every wash. “This will help preserve both color retention and richness,” she says. Nino agrees, recommending no more than two to three times a week. She also suggests applying a heat protectant to your hair before using hot tools. Finally, she says a gloss treatment every four to six weeks can go a long way in keeping all the tones rich and vibrant. Use an in-salon option, or try a clarifying version at home.
