For most of my life, my curly hair was a complete mystery. Having a mother with a completely different hair type and a father who is extremely bald, no one in my life really knew what to do with my thin but lush mass of coils. So I did what most curly-haired girls I know have done throughout their teenage years: I became best friends with my curling iron. This choice had some unintended consequences. My very healthy curly hair started to get damaged and eventually I had to cut it all off. As a child, I associated long, luscious hair with beauty. So it’s safe to say that my self-esteem took a hit in that fateful moment.
I said goodbye to my mom’s hairdresser when I decided to learn how to care for my hair naturally, using my trusty hair straightener. This was about 12 years ago, before my For You page was full of curly hair inspiration from around the world and gorgeous before-and-afters from curly hair experts. is. Instead, I did a lot of Google searches until I found a salon with good reviews. My hair was already pretty short, so I knew cutting it to a healthy length and curling it would make it even shorter. But in my quest for long, mermaid-like curls, I faced my lifelong fear of haircuts and headed to the salon.
The first haircut was a sight to behold. I cut off a lot of hair and left the salon with a wealth of curly hair care knowledge. Over the years, I’ve grown my curls long and strong (and cut them short again) and learned everything I can about caring for my hair. Embracing your curls and getting a curly haircut doesn’t have to be a scary task. I’ve been in the curly haircut industry for 12 years now, so I can tell you, curly girls, that the industry has come a very long way. If you’re looking for a curly haircut, here’s everything you need to know to make sure you leave the salon feeling great.
Taylor Vickers, curly hairstylist
Taylor Vickers is a certified junior stylist at Infinite Salon in Portland, Oregon. She has been working with Carly’s clients since she started her apprenticeship in 2021.
1. What is a curly haircut?
A curly haircut, as the name suggests, is a haircut for curly hair. There are several different techniques for cutting curly hair, but the defining feature is to cut each curl to the desired length and shape on dry hair. Taylor Vickers, a certified hairstylist at Infinite Salon PDX (who is also my personal stylist), told me that stylists “prefer the dry cutting method because it’s easier to see the natural texture.” Essentially, dry-cutting curly hair allows your stylist to see exactly where each curl will fall, ensuring an even, cohesive cut.
During this process, your hair may start to look a little wild (it takes about 30-40 minutes for your stylist to run their hands through your hair and play with your curls). So, once the cut part is finished, the hair will return to its original state. Looks as expected. Also, if you have bangs cut, your stylist will likely cut them longer than you originally agreed to and modify them so you can see exactly where the bangs will fall after your hair is styled. Sho. (Micro bangs are cute, but not if you haven’t planned them in advance.) Once your hair is styled and completely dry, you’ll see the full effect of your haircut. As someone who has witnessed these before and afters many times, it really feels like curly hair stylists are doing the magic.
2. Who should get a curly haircut?
Whether you want loose waves or tight coils, curly haircuts are perfect for those who value their natural texture. Most of the time, if you wear your hair naturally, a curly haircut is the best choice as it is specifically tailored to your hair type and maintains the shape of your curls. If you need the flexibility to straighten or blow-dry your hair, be sure to let your stylist know before your haircut. Stylists can adjust the way your hair is cut with this in mind.
3. How often should curly hair be cut?
To be honest, I’m really bad at getting haircuts on a regular basis. I still have a lot of haircut trauma to deal with, but I’m working on it. The truth is, regular trimming is very important for hair growth. This will prevent the breakage from spreading up the shaft and damaging more hair. I learned this the hard way during the recent boycott of curly hair cuts. The frequency of cuts depends on your curls and your goals. Depending on your hair type, Taylor recommends different cut frequencies. She says wavy hair should be trimmed every two to three months, curly hair every four to five months, and tightly coiled hair should be trimmed six months apart. It says it needs to be vacated. This is general advice, but if you share your goals with your hairstylist, they’ll be able to recommend a regular trim frequency that will help you achieve the hair you’re looking for.
Before curly hair cut After curly hair cut
4. How do I find a curly hair stylist?
Regardless of your hair type, finding a new stylist can be quite an adventure. How can you be sure their reviews are trustworthy? What if their Instagram doesn’t feature textures or styles that match yours? There’s always an element of uncertainty with new stylists. Although it does exist, Taylor recommends starting your search at the websites of Devacurl, Rezo, Ouidad, and Cut it Kinky. There you can find a skilled curly specialist near you. We’ve also found that asking other beauty technicians (like waxers and nail technicians) can lead you to salons in your area that you haven’t heard of yet. And if you’re feeling particularly brave, if you see someone out in the field with curls you want to kill, ask who their stylist is!
Once you’ve found a potential candidate, comb through the salon or stylist’s social media accounts to get a better idea of what they do. They won’t necessarily have the exact sample for your hair type or desired cut, but it will give you a good idea of the quality of their work. When you call to make your appointment, ask what kind of curly haircuts you do (we need a stylist who does dry cuts!) and if you need to follow any pre-booking instructions. If you consult a salon and they don’t really recommend it, you may want to start your search again.
5. How do you choose your curly haircut inspiration?
This is the part that always confuses me before cutting my hair. I can’t seem to find an inspiration photo that fits exactly what I’m looking for. Either the cut is right but the texture isn’t, or the texture is right but it’s not an absolutely perfect cut. I end up taking a photo to the stylist and saying something like, “It looks like this…but mix this up.” When it comes to curly haircuts, showing photos for inspiration is easier said than done.
When I thoroughly discussed my wishes with Taylor for a recent cut, I actually didn’t take out the photos until after the consultation for this very reason. Instead, I said exactly what I wanted. In this case, there was uneven growth and breakage, which needed to be leveled out, as well as a desire to cut the curtain bangs. It’s super easy, but I’ve yet to find any inspirational photos that feature curtain bangs that match my hair texture perfectly. Taylor says finding an inspiration photo that exactly matches your hair type can be tricky, understanding that everyone has different curls and the end result may not look exactly like the inspiration photo. You don’t really even need it as long as you have one. A good stylist will explain that your hair type may vary and help you get as close to what you’re looking for as possible.
6. How do I prepare my curly hair for my appointment?
As for how to come to your appointment, most salons will ask you to come with clean, dry, untangled curls. I’ve been to salons that require new customers to come to their appointment without any styling products so the stylist can see the condition of your natural hair. I’ve even been to salons that ask you to come in with your usual hair style to see what you like. My preference is always the latter. Because my hair without any styling products looks completely different than my hair with a little gel or mousse. This also allows your stylist to see what kind of shrinkage and curl patterns they are working with. If your salon requires you to come in without having your hair styled, it’s a good idea to call and ask if coming in with your curls styled as usual is an option.
Taylor says it’s only important to arrive with your hair styled for your first appointment. She often sees returning customers without their hair styled. But by that point, she’s familiar with their curls and knows how they react when cut.
Before curly hair cut After curly hair cut
7. How to get curly hair you’re happy with
The first part of a curly haircut (and indeed any salon appointment) is the consultation. This is where you talk to your stylist about your hair and explain what you’re looking for. Be as honest and detailed as possible about your goals. Taylor sat with me for about 30 minutes before picking up the scissors. We talked about how I usually style my hair, the products I use, and what I hope to achieve both with that cut and in the future. She then took pictures of my hair and gave me 3 different cuts, from just trimming the ends to a deeper cut that left my hair all the same length and significantly shorter than what I was used to. He gave me three different cutting options. I knew it was going to look completely different so I chose the shortest option, but I’m so glad we were able to have a conversation before we started cutting so I knew what to expect.
Make sure you and your stylist are on the same page about how much to cut and what your end goal is. As curly-haired girls know, it takes time for curls to grow, and the length does not appear as quickly as for those with straight hair, so you want to avoid unexpected cuts as much as possible. I’ve had my fair share of bad haircuts in a day, but when my stylist and I take the time to plan our actions before hitting the scissors, I’m always happy with the results.
8. Should I cut my curls at home?
Cutting curly hair is a major undertaking and often comes at a price. Lockdown a few years ago turned many of us into our own stylists (I even did my own trims during this period), but is it a good idea to trim your own curls regularly? ? Of course, you should do whatever you want with your hair, but Taylor advises against doing a complete makeover at home. But if you have a good pair of hair scissors and want to trim bangs or curly curls, use them. When you’re at the salon, pay close attention to how your stylist cuts your hair. And if you feel like you can do a little maintenance trimming in between big cuts, go for it.
