It took a long time and a lot of trial and error to find the right product for my thick, dry 3c curls. Naturally, when I was younger, I thought I could use products labeled “for all hair types” at the drugstore, hoping that my hair would be as shiny, smooth, and moisturized as the model on the bottle. I made the mistake of believing that there was. Spoiler alert: They didn’t. Even now, as I’m a beauty editor and try out different formulas, some curl products can leave my hair dry and brittle after a few months of use. Frustrated, I decided to do some research myself to find out why this was happening. If you have curly hair and have had a similar experience, keep reading. I’m going to share a little about some sneaky and very common ingredients found in hair products that may not work for your curls.
What is dimethicone and how does it affect curly hair?
Before you panic, let me preface this by saying that dimethicone is not a dangerous or “bad” ingredient, but it can do more harm than good to your curls. I did a little research myself and found that using dimethicone regularly can cause your hair to become dry and brittle over time due to the nature of the ingredient. Dimethicone is a popular silicone used in both skin and hair care products to form a barrier and lock in moisture. However, it is not water-soluble, so water, gentle co-washing, or sulfate-free shampoo alone will not wash it out of your hair.
This is the problem with curls. There are benefits to using dimethicone in your daily life, such as making your hair smoother, reducing frizz, and protecting it from heat, but it doesn’t absorb moisture because your curls need moisture to activate and define them. It can prevent and ultimately dry out your hair. I’m not saying this happens to everyone with curls, but I can confidently say that this was my problem. If you find that the longer you use shampoo or conditioner, the drier your hair becomes, the same may be true for you.
I still sometimes use a hair serum or two that contains a small amount of dimethicone, but now I check the ingredient list before putting anything on my hair. Also, be sure to use a cleansing shampoo once a week to remove buildup. Once I stopped using products containing large amounts of dimethicone, my hair improved. It feels healthier, more hydrated, and less tangled than before. If you’re looking for more information on this subject or personal stories shared by others, Naturally Curly is also a great and helpful resource.
Everyone’s hair is different, so if your routine is working well and includes dimethicone, there’s no need to change it. This is my PSA to anyone else suffering from curls due to dry AF who can’t figure out what the underlying cause is.
Below are some of my favorite silicone-free curl products.
Silicone-free products perfect for curls
Maria Nila
Simultaneous cleaning of coils and curls
This co-wash from Maria Nila is very gentle and designed for curly and coily hair types. Leaves hair very soft and refreshed. In some cases, you may not even need to apply conditioner. After using the conditioner, my hair is already hydrated.
Maria Nila
Coil & Curl Finishing Hair Mask
This deep treatment mask contains curl-boosting ingredients like shea butter and jojoba oil. Provides sufficient moisture without putting stress on your hair.
Rizos Carl
Refresh & Detangle Spray
This moisturizing spray is perfect to use between washes to refresh your curls. Contains nutritional ingredients such as coconut oil, shea butter, and olive oil.
Mierre
Brazilian Curly Cocktail Curl Cream
Mielle’s curl cream is enriched with super hydrators like glycerin, jojoba, and sweet almond oil.
When in doubt, create a custom expression. Prose offers a way to create custom curl creams (and optionally shampoos and conditioners) using natural ingredients specifically designed to nourish your hair.
curl
Blueberry Bliss Repair Leave In Conditioner
This restorative leave-in conditioner is perfect for dry, damaged curls. Formulated with coconut oil and organic blueberry extract, it’s designed to not only repair damage but also promote healthy hair growth.
curl smith
hydro style flexi hair jelly
If you have curls or coils, it can be difficult to use styling gels. Some of them weigh down the hair and make it sticky, while others don’t provide enough hold. This one from Curlsmith is silicone-free while still offering amazing clarity.
curl wow
cocomotion lubricating conditioner
Color Wow’s Curl Wow collection offers some of the best curly hair products on the market. Some products in the line do contain silicones, but some silicones (like the ones in these formulas) have been modified to be water-soluble, making them easier to wash off and less prone to build-up and drying. It is important to note that Remove your hair.
bread beauty supply
100% macadamia oil concentrate
I love all of Bread Beauty Supply’s products, but this brand’s macadamia oil is one of my favorites. Best used while washing your hair to keep it moisturized and healthy. My super thick hair only needs a few drops.
kerastase
Curl Manifesto Curl Defying Gel Cream
This curl-defining gel cream combines the moisturizing properties of a cream with the holding power of a gel. It also boosts volume, adds shine, and enhances curl and coil definition like no other.