Following four reports of acute kidney failure following the use of so-called “Brazil corrective” products containing glyoxylic acid, French authorities have contacted the National Agency for Food, Environment and Occupational Health and Safety (ANSES), the Directorate General for Competition, The Department of Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF) and the Directorate General of Health (DGS) recommend against using them as a “preventive measure”.
4 cases reported
Cases were reported between January and August 2024. France’s ANSES said the four people involved, aged between 28 and 42, had “recovered following treatment” at local hospitals. The agency also said it has initiated expertise on the nephrotoxicity of glyoxylic acid when used in hair applications. Currently, European cosmetic regulations do not restrict the use of this ingredient. Glyoxylic acid is often used as an alternative to formaldehyde, which has been classified as carcinogenic since 2013. Glyoxylic acid has a variety of functions, allowing you to curl or straighten your hair.
Four cases in France occurred after hair straightening products were used in hair salons.
When glyoxylic acid “enters the bloodstream through the scalp” it “converts into calcium oxalate crystals” and can cause kidney damage, said Dr. Juliette Block, head of the French government’s health alert and vigilance department. He explained to AFP.
“It is very likely that other cases go unreported. In some cases, drinking water removes the crystals, so they go unnoticed. In other cases, kidney failure occurs within hours afterwards. Even if you are diagnosed, you may not know the connection,” she continued. “The purpose of our warning is to get people to think about it.”
Hair salons and individuals are therefore advised not to use these products, and cosmetics stores are advised not to sell them, pending the conclusion of the ANSES expertise, which is expected to be published at the end of 2024.
If you develop signs of kidney failure, such as abdominal pain, back pain, nausea or vomiting, several hours after applying a hair product containing glyoxylic acid, “call your doctor or call a poison control center right away.” It is recommended that Officials have warned against mentioning this use.
scientific evaluation
“About 20 cases have been reported in Israel in recent years, similar to the one observed in France and one in Switzerland,” said Sandrine Charles, cosmetics project manager at ANSES. .
In June, the French Academy of Medicine recommended “warning and information messages be sent to medical professionals, beauty salons and cosmetics stores” based on scientific papers. The organization argues that “the health risks are unknown and may be underestimated,” and “if lesions occur on the scalp, hair straightening, which increases the penetration of glyoxylic acid, should not be performed.” is important,” he emphasized.
Despite “doubts regarding the toxicity of glyoxylic acid”, “the current factors do not allow us to draw a final conclusion and remind us of the importance of following the instructions and precautions for use” said FEBEA, the French industry association representing the . Wednesday, October 16th.
According to FEBEA, it’s important to use these products only on healthy, unblemished scalps and to seek the help of a trained cosmetologist.
“We do not add glyoxylic acid as an ingredient to our products in any market in the world,” French cosmetics giant L’Oréal told AFP.
Depending on its conclusions, the assessment carried out by ANSES could lead to France proposing changes to the European regulatory instruments governing cosmetics.
