If you’ve spent the past decade trying and failing at slow, carefree, beachy waves, you can finally put down the tongs, treat your burns, and call it all a bad job. Hair is changing. And it seems like it’s spreading outward.
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Big hair is back on the catwalks, with models wearing fluffy backcombs fit for an oil tycoon’s ball. But Vivienne Westwood’s hair at SS25 was inspired by Princess Michael of Kent and the 1980s Sloane Rangers, and at Arlington’s 16th hole, she wore a revered look with a big, bouffant supermodel blow-dry backcombed. Hairstylist Sam McKnight says the new big hair fashion is not like the helmet hair of the ’80s.
The new “Dynasty Hair” is strong but looks much softer. And thanks to the explosion of DIY hair tutorials online, it’s something you can accomplish pretty quickly at home. “I’m not talking about a proper, painstaking blow-dry with lots of sections and a round brush,” McKnight told me after Fashion Week.
Simply wrap your hair with jumbo bendy rollers for even more volume in the morning
The secret to his modern big hair is to blow dry upwards to lift the roots (first sprayed with Hair by Sam McKnight Cool Girl Superlift Volumizing Spray, £26). Then either very roughly pat down the large areas, or throw in 4-6 large rollers (heated ones are best, but Velcro is fine too. My favorites are Babyliss’s £60 each and Kitsch’s £15). Or you can skip it and start directly with backcombing.
To do this at home, hold your hair near the roots and gently pull it back using a small brush or comb, then spray each section with hairspray and let dry.
Once set, use a soft-bristled brush to skim the top to fluff it up, but avoid touching the guts underneath. “The modern way is to use hairspray as a styling product, rather than locking in the finished style,” says McKnight, who sprays on Modern Hairspray Multitasking Styling Mist, £24. Masu.
Even if this “easy” volumizing method is beyond your pay grade, simply roll your hair up with jumbo bendy rollers and in the morning the heat from your head will form your hair, adding even more volume. Trust me, I was skeptical. However, a light mist of dry shampoo such as Batsite Overnight Deep Cleanse (£4.25), Kitsch’s Satin Jumbo Flexi-Rods (four for £19), one in front, one in the back, and one in the back. Place one below. Wear it to the side, wear it to bed, and give it a flat, fine barnet major bounce at breakfast.
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Lighting Technique: Declan Slattery. Hair & Makeup: Sarah Cherry. Model: Emily I of Nevs. Above: Rokit