Consider hair porosity
“Hair porosity and density play an important role in how your hair absorbs and feels when using oils,” says hairstylist Jasmine “Jazzy” Green. We have a guide to hair porosity that you should know about, but as a general rule of thumb, here’s what you should know: Hair porosity refers to how much water the hair absorbs and retains, and this all depends on the structure of the hair cuticle. In other words, how open or closed the cuticle is.
To make things even more confusing, curl type (3a-3c) or coil type (4a-4c) is completely separate from hair porosity. For example, one person’s 4b hair may require something completely different than another person’s 4b hair. Let’s analyze the porosity of each using Green’s recommendations.
highly porous hair
Your cuticles are open and raised. Moisture is absorbed quickly, but leaves just as quickly. Green explains that she uses fatty, heavy oils throughout the hair, adding that these oils have enough viscosity to hold onto the hair shaft and not dissipate quickly. Hair needs moisture, so using a heavier oil won’t make your hair feel heavy or greasy. “Castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil, or even shea butter are great for highly porous hair,” says Green.
medium porous hair
The cuticle is normally spaced. Moisture can move in and out at a balanced rate. Green says medium-porosity hair is at its best when it comes to oil. “People with these hair types will get good results with most oils, but your hair may feel best with black seed oil or grape seed oil.”
low porosity hair
Your cuticles are strong. It is difficult for moisture to enter the hair shaft, but once it does, the hair retains moisture very well. “To lock in moisture, add curl definition, and reduce frizz, oils with a light texture give the best results. Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, or argan oil help reduce porosity. It’s great for low hair,” says Green.
Know when to apply oil in daily life
“There’s no oil in the world that will make your hair soft and supple or shiny and healthy-looking when you need a haircut,” says Green, adding that there is no oil in the world that will make your hair look soft and supple or shiny and healthy when you need a haircut. Off added that the cure is to cut. That being said, you can incorporate oils into your hair care routine at certain times to protect your hair from split ends and maintain the shape of your curls.
For moisture and curl definition, Green recommends pairing the oil with a styling cream, gel, or mousse to give your curls even more definition. If you want maximum hydration, “give yourself a hot oil treatment every week or every other week,” she says. You can also add oil to deep conditioning treatments or infuse your hair with oil as part of preparing for a protective style. For scalp health and hair growth, Greene loves pre-poo or overnight treatments. No, using oil won’t magically regrow your hair overnight, but it can moisturize your scalp and hair cuticles, creating a favorable environment for hair growth. And while most oils that claim to give you longer, thicker hair aren’t backed by science, as of now, a 2023 study shows promising hair growth results with rosemary oil. Professor Green says to be sure to dilute rosemary oil, as it can cause irritation, or to make things easier, just buy an oil that already has rosemary oil in it.
Quick PSA: If you’re using all of these heavy oils (some of which may contain silicones), you’re going to end up with product buildup. This is especially true when hair has low porosity. Be sure to cleanse on your regular schedule depending on your hair type.
