Hey, curl friends! My name is Liz, and I’ve been natural my whole life. I’m not a professional, but I love learning, reviewing products, and sharing tips on natural hair care. And today, we’re tackling a big one: 𫧠wash day π«§.
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Whether you love or hate it, wash day is one of the most important yet time-consuming parts of any natural hair regimen. Over the years, I’ve tried it all β from viral DIYs to the no-shampoo method β and there were plenty of hits and misses. So, I decided to compile the habits and hacks that have ~actually~ made my wash day easier and enhanced the health of my hair over time.
For a little info about me: I have fine, low-porosity, medium density, Type 4 hair (a mix of 3c/4a curls).
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So, here are some of the biggest wash-day mistakes I’ve made with my natural hair β and what I’m now doing instead:
And remember:Β Everyone’s hair is unique!Β What works for me may not work for you. What’s best for your routine may differ depending on your hair needs, porosity, goals, and lifestyle. So, feel free to take inspiration from these tips and learn what works for you!
1.β BAD HABIT: Skipping wash days. I get it; sometimes, you’re tired after a long week, and the last thing you want to do is set aside a couple of hours for a wash day. However, wash days are ~key~ for the health of your curls and coils, and not having a regular regimen can result in dry, brittle, or damaged hair. You want to keep your scalp cleansed from product buildup (more on that soon) and ensure your strands get the moisture and treatments they need to flourish.
Wsfurlan / Getty Images
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Follow a consistent wash-day routine. How often should you wash your curls? Most recommend once every seven to ten days. Since sticking to a routine where I shampoo and deep condition my hair every week, I’ve seen a significant improvement in the health and strength of my curls.
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2.β BAD HABIT: Avoiding shampoo. For years, co-washing (using conditioner only to cleanse hair) was a popular trend in the natural hair community to avoid shampoo β which often contains sulfates that can be incredibly drying for textured hair and leave your strands susceptible to breakage. At one point in my hair journey, I relied on co-washing and only shampooed once a month because shampoo left my curls feeling dry afterward (it turns out I just needed a better shampoo that worked for my hair!), but I noticed my hair didn’t feel as lightweight and clarified with this wash routine. I’m not saying co-washing is entirely “bad”; many naturals still swear by it! However, the method can have drawbacks, like not removing product buildup, resulting in an itchy and irritated scalp.
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β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Shampoo regularly. Now, I shampoo my hair once a week β every single wash day β and I’d argue it’s one of the most crucial steps in my regimen. For my current routine, I first wet my hair with warm water, shampoo TWICE to thoroughly cleanse my curls, and then use a conditioner. First, I start with a shampoo that clarifies well; after rinsing out the first shampoo, I use a second moisturizing shampoo that leaves my hair feeling hydrated. Since shampooing regularly, I’ve noticed: 1) my hair feels clarified and not weighed down, 2) when my strands are clarified well, my hair absorbs water and products better, and 3) as a result, my hair feels more moisturized, so I can better avoid breakage and retain more length, and finally, 4) my curls are shinier and more defined.
A person holds a bottle of Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Invigorating Shampoo, which is for all hair types and contains peppermint, rosemary, and eucalyptus
A hand holding a bottle of Camille Rose Sweet Ginger Cleansing Rinse with castor and aniseed oil, labeled as an invigorating hair cleanser with ginger and lemon peel
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Right now, one of my favorite shampoo combos is the GIOVANNI Tea Tree Triple Treat Invigorating Shampoo and the Camille Rose Sweet Ginger Rinse, which I follow up with as a moisturizing shampoo.
3.β BAD HABIT: Only cleansing your scalp. Another popular method to avoid drying out curly hair is clarifying your scalp alone and avoiding shampooing the entire length of your strands. Of course, taking care of your scalp and keeping it clean for healthy hair growth is crucial. A clean scalp helps stimulate hair follicles for hair growth and avoids issues like dandruff, acne, and scabbing on the scalp. But the rest of your hair needs a cleanse, too! Not shampooing your strands at all can leave you with product buildup, and when you apply new products, they may not be as effective since they won’t penetrate your strands as easily.
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β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Shampoo the lengths of your hair, too. I usually focus on cleansing my scalp first, then I work the remaining product down the strands of my hair. This doesn’t dry out my curls but gives them a clean slate, so they stay hydrated (and, as a result, more defined!) during the week. The most important thing is to find a quality shampoo with ingredients that work well with your hair type and porosity so it won’t strip your strands.
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4.β BAD HABIT: Over-detangling your hair. For curly and coily hair, detangling is key to avoiding knots and getting rid of tangles, but one of the biggest culprits of breakage is over-manipulation. I used to detangle my hair with a brush or comb while shampooing, then while applying deep conditioner, and again while styling. And, of course, every time, I shed hair.
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β TRY THIS INSTEAD: ~Selectively~ detangle during wash day. Finger detangling FIRST allows you to gently detangle your hair before grabbing a brush or comb β and prevent unnecessary snagging. (And some naturals have ditched detangling tools altogether and only finger detangle to reduce even more breakage!) For my new routine, I finger detangle when I shampoo, then I detangle with a brush when applying my deep conditioner, and when styling, I use my hands to apply the product β or if needed, I’ll use a styling brush. In each step, I make sure to take my time, brushing my hair from the ends to the roots so I can carefully tend to my hair with much less breakage.
Currently, my favorite detangling brush is the UNbrush. But you can also check out my review of the most popular detangling brushes here.
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5.β BAD HABIT: Not deep conditioning. A deep conditioner can add even more moisture and nourishment to your curls than regular conditioners, so skipping it in your routine may mean you’re missing out on several benefits, like reducing frizz, improving elasticity, and repairing damaged strands. Early in my hair journey, I used a deep conditioner more sparingly β maybe once a month β and after a typical wash day, I never felt my hair was as moisturized as it could be for the week ahead.
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β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Regularly incorporate a deep conditioner in your routine. Some people deep condition once or twice a month or weekly; I deep condition once a week (every wash day), which works well for me. I apply it to the entire length of my curls and always add extra to the ends, which are the most delicate parts of the hair and need some TLC. My hair has been softer and more hydrated ever since, which helps me in my current goal of length retention.
A hand holds an orange container of Amika: Soulfood nourishing mask, 250 mL, 8.5 fl oz
Jar of Mielle Rosemary Mint Strengthening Hair Masque, infused with biotin to encourage growth, being held in a hand
Liz Richardson / BuzzFeed
Here are my current fave deep conditioners: The amika soulfood nourishing mask (which gives my hair a boost of moisture when it feels dry), and the Mielle Rosemary Mint Strengthening Hair Masque (which helps my curls bounce back after heat styling, leaving them shiny, soft, and defined).
6.β BAD HABIT: Deep conditioning for too long. Most of the deep conditioning treatments I’ve seen recommend leaving the product on for around 20 minutes. I used to leave the treatment on for hours (and perhaps have left it overnight a few times, too!), thinking it would help my hair absorb it even more and give extra hydration. The result was mushy, limp curls that didn’t feel or look right. Why? A little something called protein-moisture balance.
Your hair needs both protein and moisture to maintain its health and strength. Protein strengthens and protects your hair from breakage, but too much protein can also cause damaged, brittle hair. On the flip side, your hair can be over-moisturized, aka, have hygral fatigue β which is exactly what happened to me by over-conditioning my hair. This is when your hair’s cuticle is damaged by excessive moisture. The goal is to strike the proper balance for your hair type; trichologist Precious Rutlin told Bydie: “Protein-moisture balance (is) when your hair texture has the proper hydration, nutrients, and strength to prevent breakage in your hair shaft.”
Catherine Falls Commercial / Getty Images
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Follow the instructions of your deep conditioner! Anytime I get a new product, I read the label so I don’t exceed the time limit. My curls have been much healthier ever since.
Liz Richardson / BuzzFeed
7.β BAD HABIT: Drying your hair with a regular towel. Naturally coily, kinky, and curly hair is more delicate than straight hair, so any excessive friction can cause breakage. Most towels are too rough and can snag your hair, snapping your strands without you noticing.
Freshsplash / Getty Images
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Use a softer material, like a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt. That way, you’ll be able to dry your hair while avoiding unnecessary breakage.
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8.β BAD HABIT: Not using heat at all. Chances are, you’ve heard the standard advice to completely avoid heat if you have curly hair. Heat damage is real; excessive heat breaks the bonds in your hair, which cannot be reformed. Early on, I never reached for a hair dryer and would only air-dry my curls, but honestly, my hair would take days to dry fully, and it wasn’t the best option for the health of my strands (more on that later).
Liudmila Chernetska / Getty Images / iStockphoto
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Use indirect heat on wash day when needed. Using heat strategically in your routine has multiple benefits, such as drying your hair much faster and helping your deep conditioner absorb better, as the heat helps to open the hair cuticles. For example, I use a steamer or a hooded dryer (below) that I can set up on a desk or counter and sit under while deep conditioning or drying my styled hair after wash day.
I currently use this Conair Pro Style bonnet hair dryer. I love its portable design and the fact that I can close it to make it more compact and take up less storage room.
Liz Richardson / BuzzFeed
9.β BAD HABIT: Going to bed with wet hair. When I air-dried my hair, it would never be dry by the time I was ready for bed. And even though my hair was tucked away in a satin scarf or bonnet for protection, sleeping with wet hair is extremely uncomfortable β and apparently, it can also cause damage. When wet, your hair is in its weakest state, making it more prone to breakage. Plus, wet hair means you’re more susceptible to scalp fungus. No, thank you.
Andreswd / Getty Images
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Make sure your hair is ~fully~ dry before heading to bed. Other than using a hooded dryer, you can use a hair dryer with a diffuser attachment. This attachment can speed up the drying time by diffusing the heat indirectly (instead of directly from the hair dryer) throughout your hair, so you can set your freshly styled curls in place while reducing frizz and avoiding heat damage.
Pinacub / Getty Images / iStockphoto
And finally…
10.β BAD HABIT: Trying too many new products at a time. If you’re online for even a second, you’re likely bombarded with ads and product recommendations. And if you’re like me, you may love trying the latest products for your hair. But, incorporating too many of them into your routine can waste a lot of time and money.
Wsfurlan / Getty Images
β TRY THIS INSTEAD: Find products that work for you and stick with them. I’ve found that I enjoy my wash days so much more β and have gotten more out of them β when I keep up with my staple products and routine: Detangle (one product), shampoo (two products), deep condition (one product), and style (one or two products). When you invest in quality hair care, even when something new comes out, you don’t have to try it. Consistency is key, and simplicity can be effective. If it’s working for you already, keep at it, and you’ll see results!
A good rule of thumb I’m following now is not to buy a new product of the same kind until I finish the one I currently have.
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There we have it! These are just some of the tips I’ve learned that have saved me time on wash day, inspired me to love my natural hair journey, and helped me reach my healthy hair goals.
Liz Richardson / BuzzFeed
Now, I’m curious: What are your best hacks, tips, and tricks for wash day or curly hair care overall? Let me know in the comments below!