In part two of our hair care series, Dr. Oetewa Oyelinde, a dermatologist and director of the Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor College of Medicine, explains what works, what doesn’t, and how often you should use it when it comes to scalp care. Let’s talk about Kika. The ultimate answer to using hot tools on your hair and whether you should sleep with wet hair.
Dandruff on the scalp is a common problem faced by many people, and it is important to know the causes of dandruff. Oyerinde explains that a variety of conditions can cause what is called “dandruff.” The most common cause is seborrheic dermatitis, a rash caused by yeast overgrowth on the scalp, but other causes include scalp eczema, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis, which is an allergic reaction to something you’re using. and so on. You might think that products like scrubs will get rid of all the flaking on your scalp, but that’s not always the case.
“Scrubs can actually irritate the scalp, making the pain and itching even worse,” says Dr. Oyelinde, assistant professor of dermatology. “Instead, we recommend using a chemical exfoliant, such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid, about 30 minutes before washing your hair to exfoliate your scalp.”
When it comes to scalp serums, focus on water-based options over oil-based ones. “You might think my scalp is dry. I need to oil my scalp,” Oylinde said. “However, oil can feed and cause overgrowth of yeast, a common cause of dandruff.”
Hot tools like hair dryers, straighteners, and curling irons get a bad rap, and for good reason. Over time, Ojerinde explained, hot tools can break down the bonds in your hair, leading to heat damage. But that doesn’t mean you need to cut them out completely. The key is to use a heat protectant to ensure your hair is protected from potential damage.
“Heat styling can be tricky, but there’s no need to fear it,” Oyelinde says. “Consider frequency of use and hair type. I think it’s a little safer to use it more often on straight hair types than on curly hair types.”
If you choose to air dry, make sure your hair and scalp are completely dry before your head hits the pillow at bedtime. Similar to oily scalp serums, going to bed with wet hair can cause the yeast that lives on your scalp to overgrow, causing dandruff and scalp irritation.
“To air-dry your hair, you need to walk around the room to circulate air in and around your scalp,” says Oyerinde. “This is much safer for your hair than sleeping in a place where your hair will be less likely to dry.”
Written by Anna Chiappes